September 14, 2015






Beautiful Bergen

The forecast is for cloudy with periods of rain today.  We have a few things on our list but not a full day so we can take our time and dodge showers if we must.

It’s 9:30 before we saunter down to breakfast.  It is a nice spread of eggs, sausages and all the great Norwegian breakfast items—dark bread, smoked salmon, herring, geitost cheese, fruits, vegetables, ham, muesli and yogurt.  Mary goes right for the herring, salmon, dark bread and fruit.  John goes for the whole buffet.  A fella’ needs his energy.  Lots of coffee and juice complete the picture.  The breakfast hours are until 10:00 but they are still replacing and refilling items at 9:55—that’s a pretty high level of service.

Our two “musts” today are the old town (Bryggen), a Unesco World Heritage site, and Floyen, the tip-top perch above the city for spectacular city and water views. It isn’t raining when we leave so we head right for the funicular up to Floyen.  The line is over a block long out the building with tons of tour groups and people holding up paddles.  Being no fools we decide to wander around Bryggen first.

This old port city was ruled by Hanseatic League merchants for a few hundred years between the 15th and 18th centuries. These international traders populated the port cities of Europe dominating trade and actually forming their own navies and armies to protect their wares.  There is still a lot of Hansa-this and Hansa that throughout Northern Europe that are directly descended from the league.

The structures are wooden and pretty well preserved.  The old trading houses of the merchants and guilds are now populated by trading houses of tourism businesses.  There are cute little shops, markets, restaurants and other services which makes for a fun morning of just nosing around. At one point Mary decided to find a rest room which required a 10-krone coin.  We were both reading coins in our pockets when a bystander, obviously frustrated with our ignorance walked over and dropped a tenner into our hands (that’s $1.20).  Tusen takk sir!  Of course the coin didn’t work when Mary dropped it into the slot so she just waited for someone to come out and then grabbed the door to go in.

It is a little after noon when we go back to the funicular to find almost no one in line.  Apparently the tours get going in the morning and again mid-afternoon.  There are two cars running back and forth on a single track with a bypass in the middle.  The views on Floyen are as spectacular as advertised.  Bergen is surrounded by 7 mountains with the city in a valley reaching down to the North Sea.  Our aerie is at a couple thousand feet offering vantage points for every direction.  This is understandably the number one tourist attraction in Bergen.

Bergen is the second largest city in Norway and the comfortable center we have become familiar with we now see stretching a few miles inland.  Around a corner from the center and beyond our hotel on the far side is another large port where a massive cruise ship is docked.  There are also a couple smaller cruise ships docked at wharves farther out—probably for fjord trips.  Now we know where all the tour groups came from on a rainy Monday.

There is a sign on a tree that says, “Don’t insult the witch.”  A group of French men and women are trying to figure out what it says and they ask Mary.  She goes into her witch routine and they immediately understand what a witch is—imagine that.  We browse a bit in the restaurant/bar and it looks like this is a lunch stop for some of the tours.

It begins to rain lightly as we are wrapping up on top so our timing is perfect.  The afternoon tour groups are also starting to appear which is our cue to get back in line for the ride back down.

The rest of the afternoon is just spent appreciating more of central Bergen.  We visit stores, parks, monuments, stroll through the university.  We blow off lunch since one of us ate most of the breakfast buffet and the other doesn’t eat much and opt for an early dinner after a bit of a rest in our room.

We were so enamored with Pingvinen last night that we dangerously decide to go back.  We again find seats at the bar and the same bartender recognized us bringing our English menus right away.  John orders the lamb and spinach sausages with mashed potatoes and cauliflower, and Mary has the open faced smoked salmon and scrambled egg sandwich.  Like last night we trade plates halfway through dinner.  While we both finished each other’s dinners last night, the sausage was too much lamb and not enough spinach for Mary so we traded back and everybody was happy.  The beers are good and the encore was as good as the original performance.

We stroll around town for the rest of the evening and finish it siting on a bench on the water in Bryggen watching the boats and the rest of the world drift by.  We finally wandered back up the hill to our hotel for a brownie and tea before bed.
What did we learn today?  There is a cart in Bergen where you can get a reindeer hot dog or a chili dog.  That means you could get a reindeer chili dog—the ultimate in fusion cuisine.

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